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HeartWood
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creativity, connection and contentment
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Return to Paradise - Part VI

6/16/2021

12 Comments

 
This is the sixth installment in a series of posts commemorating a very memorable journey.

Thirty-five years ago, I paid a visit to American Samoa. At that time, it had been twenty years since I left there after spending one of the most unforgettable years of my life on the main island of Tutuila -- a year chronicled in my memoir Mango Rash: Coming of Age in the Land of Frangipani and Fanta (Behler Publications, 2019).


In this series of posts, I'm sharing excerpts from my 1986 travel journal, along with photos from the trip. ​In the previous installment, my Samoana high school friend Abe invited several of us classmates to come with him on a trip to the outer islands of the Manu'a group: Ta'u, Ofu, and Olosega. At the time, Abe was overseeing public works and power projects throughout American Samoa. Four of us made the trip: Abe, classmate Robin, another American woman named Karen, and I.

April 24, 1986
This morning the weather looks awful. Last night it was storming -- high seas, boulders across the road, fallen trees. Today the skies are gray, foreboding. But I don't want to disappoint Abe, so I go to Manu'a. 
We fly in a tiny plane -- twelve passengers. From Pago airport, it's 30 minutes to the dirt landing strip at Ta'u. The strip there is a swath cut through banana trees; taro grows within yards. There's no terminal, simply "Welcome to Ta'u," from the pilot.
Then we buzz back into the sky, and in five minutes we're in Ofu. I was dreading the landing there, but to my surprise there's a new concrete runway and the landing is perfect. The runway is one of Abe's public works projects.
Picture
Our plane on the runway at Ofu.
We're met by John, a Samoan wearing an L.A. Raiders cap. He has lived in San Francisco, speaks with an American accent. He's been in charge of a project to build a road to a peak on the island for a TV tower.
Abe sees a street light on that should be off -- the  photo cell isn't working. On the way back to the motel, he's counting how many are defective.
PictureAbe


​John takes us for a ride around the island, and we see Abe in action, pointing out to John areas of the road that need to be improved. He asks John how far from the top the road is now. John says, "About 200 yards." Abe says, "That's what you told me a month ago."

PictureOfu scenery


​The rest of us are enjoying the sights, sitting in the back of the pickup. There is white sand everywhere--even people's front yards are covered with it. The houses are clean, painted sweet pastel colors. The water is turquoise and sparkling, with live coral. Abe says the drinking water is very pure. (It comes from underground springs).

Only about 1,000 people live on the two islands, Ofu and Olosega, that are connected by a bridge Robin says cost $1,000,000.
The people of Manu'a are wealthy, I hear it said by several people. They have very little to spend money on, so they save everything. Their taro is considered the best. It's whiter, not as sticky, almost a fluffy texture like heavy bread.
Picture
Island scene
Abe checks the power plant, and Robin, Karen and I walk around the dock area and along the road, down by the little cafe. Karen tells us bizarre stories about her life. We get back to the plant; Abe is taking a nap on a mat on a bed. John drives us back to the motel. On the way we meet another of Abe's employees, who is bringing us boxes of food: pork, chicken, taro, palusami, and what Robin calls chow mein--cellophane noodles mixed with corned beef.
Picture
Motel
After dinner, Robin and Karen watch TV and talk about Karen's problems, and Abe and I sit on the beach talking for a long time. He says he envies Bill for his stable family life. (Bill envies Abe for his seriousness and studious nature.) 
Picture
Evening on the beach
PictureRobin


When it starts raining, we go inside and make coffee and sit around and talk some more. Karen falls asleep, and Abe, Robin, and I talk about our compulsiveness at work -- how we all avoid personal relationships if they interfere with our work. It strkes me as very ironic that we're all on this serene, relaxing island, miles from our responsibilities, but we end up talking about work.

Robin and Abe: the Samoan yuppies.

PictureFrangipani


​About 11:00, we go to our rooms. I sit outside watching the clouds in the dark sky, listening to the ocean, smelling the frangipani blossoms.

We would have slept soundly, but we were dumb enough to leave the door open, and mosquitoes were all over us. I had to keep the sheet completely over me -- face and all -- to keep from getting bitten about once a second.
To be continued . . . 
12 Comments
Jamie Calver
6/16/2021 08:24:56 am

When I was 12 years old I spent 2 weeks in Ofu because my brother was living there with his wife and 2 kids. They were building that airstrip you landed on. That would have been the early 70’s if my memory is correct. He had a little motorcycle and I buzzed around that island for two weeks on that bike and had so much fun. The most beautiful memories and as you said the nicest people and what a paradise. Just wanted to share with you my experience. Thank you.

Reply
Nan
6/16/2021 12:39:57 pm

Jamie, I really enjoyed hearing about your time on Ofu. That must have been a blast for a 12-year-old! An unforgettable adventure.

I'm thinking the airstrip I landed on might have been a replacement for the one that was being built when you were there. I think the one that was there in 1986 was newer.

Reply
Sally F Pobojewski
6/16/2021 11:46:46 am

I love reading about your adventures. You have always been braver than I am. I'd have loved visiting the islands, but there's no way I'd have gotten on the plane. Looking forward to the next installment.

Sally

Reply
Nan
6/16/2021 12:41:20 pm

I'd have second thoughts about getting on that plane now. I can't believe how brave (or foolhardy) I was in my youth. It made for a lot of great adventures, but looking back I'm kind of amazed I survived it all.

Reply
Kathy link
6/16/2021 12:59:03 pm

A lovely read, thank you. I love it when I can smell the flower and I don't even know the flower but maybe it's there from when I was an island mama.

Reply
Nan
6/17/2021 08:09:42 am

No doubt, Island Mama!

Reply
Sue Schneider
6/17/2021 05:31:13 am

So beautiful! Your writing feels like I'm there with you. Thank you for sharing.

Reply
Nan
6/17/2021 08:10:13 am

I feel like I'm there again too, just rereading all these entries.

Reply
Emily Everett
6/17/2021 01:38:54 pm

Listening to the ocean and smelling the frangipani blossoms is heavenly. I fell in love with frangipani there -- they called it plumeria -- and tried mightily to find lotions or candles with that scent to bring home. They all fell short. I think you can only enjoy it in the moment, like you did.

Reply
Nan
6/18/2021 07:13:30 am

I've only found one scented product that smells remotely like I remember plumaria/frangipani: https://pacificagifts.com/products/waikiki-pikake-solid-perfume-by-pacifica

It takes me right back to Samoa.

Reply
Valerie Roberts
6/17/2021 02:40:48 pm


Thanks again for a wonderful moment, It's almost like visiting you as your voice comes through the writing.

Reply
Nan
6/18/2021 07:14:00 am

I love that thought, Valerie.

Reply



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    Nan Sanders Pokerwinski, a former journalist, writes memoir and personal essays, makes collages and likes to play outside. She lives in West Michigan with her husband, Ray.

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